Part 1 of New Zealand’s South Island: Queenstown – Franz Josef in 4 days
We flew down to Queenstown on Halloween. Choosing to fly down rather than drove down meant we saved time travelling and when you only have 2 weeks in New Zealand it’s helpful to have all the time you can to fit everything in!
The first thing we found was that getting from the airport into Queenstown is very expensive! We didn’t hire a car for a couple of days as we weren’t moving on, however if we did it again we would just start the car hire. It cost $50 set fare from the airport which is around £25, and it’s a 10 minute drive. They’ve recently got Uber which was a bit cheaper but they’re blocked from airport pickup so we needed to walk a couple of roads away. We stayed in the Heritage hotel, which is a bit further out of the town but only 25 min walk to all the central things. Or 20 on the way in, 30 on the way back as it’s up a steep hill! The room was huge and we had 4 beds to choose from, and they gave us a card and some fudge for our honeymoon. There was a big heated pool we could see from our window but we didn’t try it. We were there 2 nights so actually had time to settle in a bit.
The next morning we were booked onto the first Zipline tour so we walked in to the main office. Whilst there we decided to buy a jetboat trip for that afternoon. The gondola (cable car) up the hill didn’t open until 9am so we grabbed a flat white (originally from NZ) and bagel from a nearby cafe. To get up the hill you can either walk the 1 hour Tiki trail up, or get the gondola. If we hadn’t booked the boat trip, we would have bought gondola and luge combo tickets as that works out better value. It was a warm sunny day already so we had amazing views of the mountains surrounding the lake. There’s an observation deck so we looked around, before walking down to the Zipline start. We were doing the 6 line course and the first ziplines started off quite mild in steepness and length. The guides, Laura and Georgia, set us challenges each time such as going upside down, or backwards with our eyes closed. Then we walked down the trail for about 20minutes for the last ziplines. These were much longer and steeper and really fun! During the tour they also talk about sustainability of the forest, and how our money had gone towards conservation activities.
Once we were at the bottom, we went for lunch and a couple of drinks at the pub until it was time for our boat trip. We were trying to learn not to just go in the first place we found, as there’s usually a happy hour or special offer around the corner! The jetboat trip included a shuttle bus service, which took about 15 minutes. We went with the Shotover Jet company, who use high speed jet boats to take you up and down the river, getting a couple of inches away from the canyon walls and doing 360 spins. It was really good fun and the water splashes were refreshing in the heat. There’s a micro brewery next door, with bean bags in the garden and we’d recommend a stop in there for a drink on a sunny day. We had a Japanese driver on the way back, so we had a lengthy chat about our holiday there last year and she gave us some restaurant recommendations for that day. We booked into an Indian on the Waterfront and had a really good meal there.
The next morning we needed to go back up the hill to do the luge; we should have done it the day before and then done the boat in the morning really. But it meant we got to go back up and see the views. We went early as it was going to be a freakish 28 degrees and was a Saturday. The luge was busy, but it moves fast. You race down the hill on a toboggan and they start you off on the slower course so you can get used to it. I’m by no means fast but there were some really slow people going down, they’d come to a stop at one point on a flat and you need gravity and speed to get down… Bobbi and I had to use our feet to get going again and overtake them. Next time we went on the faster route which was a lot more fun! You get a chairlift back to the top each time as well. We had a last go before getting an ice cream. We’d been keeping our eyes out for hokey-pokey since getting to NZ so when we saw it as an ice cream flavour we had to get it. It’s like a honeycomb, traditional in NZ. I also tried the Kiwi Pavlova flavour which was equally nice. It was then time to head back to our hotel, pick up the bags and go to the airport to collect our car.
We used Hertz this time and picked up another Yaris. The drive to Wanaka is under a couple of hours, but you go via an alpine road. Our little car did struggle a bit going up extremely steep bends but the windy way down was fun to drive. We stayed in Te Wanaka Lodge and were greeted by a really friendly young girl who showed us around the communal areas. She gave us a couple of places we could watch the rugby final that night and did make me feel old when she suggested the Lake Bar because the Water Bar had a younger crowd haha! We went straight out for a walk around the lake to Waterfall creek, and to see the ‘Wanaka tree’. Not really sure why it’s so popular as it’s just a photogenic tree growing out of the lake, but as there was a few people taking photos we felt we couldn’t miss out! We’d been so lucky with the weather and it was clear enough to see the tops of mountains. We had dinner at the Trout, with views of the lake and it was really lovely. Then it was time to head next door to the older persons bar to get ready for the rugby. Several pints were consumed, and I’m sure you know how the game went…
The next day we had breakfast in the lodge. Expecting some toast, we were pleasantly surprised to be offered fresh cooked pancakes which were incredible. We also had toast as we felt we needed to sample Vegemite, and the local honey. When we’d asked the girl about her recommendations, she said the hike up Mt Iron was her favourite, as you get 360 views of Wanaka. We walked up for about 45 minutes to the peak and the views were amazing so we took a lot of photos. We walked back down as it was time to drive to Fox glacier which is a few hours away.
There’s a few little stops on the way, such as the Blue Pools which are a 30 min loop walk. They’re really pretty although it was our first encounter with the West Coast sandflies… We were covered in insect repellent but they still loved us, particularly me, so I had to keep moving to try and avoid them. We got attacked again at a waterfall we stopped at, and again at Knights Point which overlooks the sea. I’d suggest wearing long trousers, or growing your leg hair as Bobbi got less bites on his legs than me. We arrived at Fox glacier just in time to check into our motel, and were glad we’d bought some wine and snacks earlier. There’s only a couple of restaurants, which close at 8:30 as it’s still not peak season. And they’re not great. I didn’t even know you could burn a lamb shank but mine must have been cooking for about 3 days. If we went again we would keep going the extra half hour to Franz Josef which had more choice.
Just a 5-10 minute drive from Fox is Lake Matheson, also known as the Mirror Lake. It’s recommended to be there before 9am for the best reflections and it was worth the short walk to. We would have liked to have stayed and done a longer walk, as the mountains reflecting in the lake really are stunning. However we were booked onto the earliest helicopter flight so we had to get going. The skies were cloud free thankfully so the helicopter was on! Firstly we had to jump on the scales, and I didn’t look as we had been away for over a week! It’s to balance the load in the helicopter though as there were 5 of us flying. We took off and within minutes were flying over Franz Josef. It wasn’t as scary as I expected and a really smooth take off. The view out of the window was stunning, all snow and ice and blue sky. The pilot made a landing on the snow so we could get out for photos. I made a snow angel, twice in fact as Bobbi stepped all over my first one before I took a photo. We walked around on the snow but kept getting stuck as our feet sank in it. It was very amusing and I did fall over once as well. After a few minutes we hoarded the helicopter again to fly over Fox glacier and return back.
We’d booked to stay the night in case the weather was too bad to fly, but luckily there is a wildlife centre in the town which is one of the only places you can see a Kiwi bird. We had a backstage tour, which turned out to be just the two of us and the guide who told us all about Kiwis before showing us the hatching centre. They had 2 eggs there incubating, which are taken to them by park rangers as they are a protected species. The eggs were bigger than we expected, about the size of a coconut. Then we got to see 3 kiwi chicks in their huts. There is a red light on so we could see them, but Kiwis can’t see red so they think they’re just in the dark and they are nocturnal birds. One of them was snuffling around which was very cute to see. Then we went into the main enclosure where there are 2 adult Kiwis. It’s really dark in there so we had to listen out for where the birds were before we could see them. They were really active, walking around and digging for food with their beaks so we watched them for quite a while. In the next room there’s a family of Tuatara who are a large native lizard – well a male one and his 6 wives! The Kiwi centre was amazing and our money helps keep the conservation going so really worthwhile doing, especially the backstage tour to see the babies.
It was then time to do a tour of the Happy Hours available and get dinner! Franz Josef had more choice so it was a better place to stay.
Part 2: Franz Josef – Nelson coming soon!



